STUDIO VISIT: JUUN. J
2011년 이후 뉴욕 편집매장 오프닝 세레머니 OPENING CEREMONY와는 돈독한 관계로 지내고 있습니다. 특히 헤드 바이어 캐럴 Carol Song과는 좋은 친구 사이이기도 합니다(만나면 일 얘기는 전혀 안 하고 술만 마시는 게 문제일까나). 오프닝 세레머니와는 종종 무언가 함께 하는데, 오프닝 세레머니 블로그의 '스튜디오 방문기 IN THE STUDIO' 시리즈에서 서울에 기반을 두고 파리 남성복 컬렉션과 세계를 대상으로 훌륭한 작업을 펼치는 패션 디자이너 정욱준의 준지 JUUN.J 스튜디오를 찾아 사진 찍고 인터뷰를 진행했습니다. 질문과 답변은 좀 더 많았는데 줄어들었네요. 오프닝 세레머니 블로그에 올라가지 않은 한국어 서문과 함께 준지 스튜디오에서 담은 사진들을 소개합니다.
Juun.J's collection of fabrics
Juun.J x adidas Originals' Superstar sneakers for the Spring/Summer 2015 collection.
Juun.J's lookbooks
Designing to Adidas collaboration for Autumn/Winter 2015-2016 collection
Juun.J's oversized top (from his Spring/Summer 2014 campaign) and an inspiration board.
A toy from Gremlins, Juun.J's favorite character in pop culture. “I especially like Gremlins and E.T. Actually, Steven Spielberg has given us some of the most fantastic images and characters that we have ever had.”
Juun.J's favorite pictorial, 01: THE LAST MAGAZINE Issue No. 13, Fall 2014.
(Photography by Ami Troost, Styling by Alastair McKimm)
(Photography by Ami Troost, Styling by Alastair McKimm)
Juun.J's favorite pictorial, 02: FANTASTIC MAN No.20 For Autumn/Winter 2014 Issue.
(Photography by Daniel Riela, Styling by Jodie Barnes)
(Photography by Daniel Riela, Styling by Jodie Barnes)
At the center of the studio, we found dried flowers in a vase, as well as Juun.J's candle made in collaboration with Korean candlemaker Maison des Bougies and Japanese perfumer Takasago.
A portrait of Juun.J by German-born artist Robert Knoke.
Josh Luke, a hand-painted sign artist, created powerful, modern graphics for Juun.J's Fall/Winter 2014 collection.
Juun.J's inspiration board features military uniforms from the early 20th century.
Juun.J's favorite pictorial, 03: METAL magazine No.31, Spring/Summer 2014 Issue.
(On the Cover Max Lester at D1 in JUUN.J, Photography by Frederik Heyman, Styling by Santi Rodríguez, Hair by Teiji Utsumi)
(On the Cover Max Lester at D1 in JUUN.J, Photography by Frederik Heyman, Styling by Santi Rodríguez, Hair by Teiji Utsumi)
the WILD magazine 2014 No.10, 'MOTION ISSUE', Portrait by Hong Jang hyun
London based artist Rob Ryan collaborated with Juun.J for the brand's Spring/Summer 2015 collection.
Juun.J's latest campaigns line the walls of the office.
Past Juun.J collections
Collection sketches
Spanish creative culture magazine NEO2 invited JUUN.J for the guest creative to September-October 2014 issue.
He will move home soon for his lovely puppy! I saw the picture that yard in sunny, cozy home before he had move.
The designer in his studio in Seoul
'PEOPLE ON THE STREET ARE MORE STYLISH THAN MODELS ON THE RUNWAY'
| WED. OCTOBER 22, 2014 | 4:00 PM | IN THE STUDIO
준지(JUUN.J)의 스튜디오에 들어서자, 자신이 만든 검은 가죽 블루종을 입은 정욱준(Wookjun Jung, Creative Director of JUUN.J)이 반가운 얼굴로 악수를 청했다. 지난 만남은 약 두 달 전이었다. 당시 그는 곧 베를린(Berlin)에 간다고 했다. 지난 2015년도 봄/여름 컬렉션에서 아디다스(Adidas)의 가장 상징적인 스니커즈 중 하나인 슈퍼스타(Superstar)를 재해석한 후, 이제 석 달 앞으로 다가온 다음 컬렉션의 협업을 논의하기 위해 다녀왔노라고 했다.
커피를 한 잔 마시면서 그가 가장 먼저 보여준 것은 'D-90'부터 파리 남성복 컬렉션 당일까지 빼곡히 적은 일정표였다. "앞으로 한 달은 디자인 작업에 온 힘을 다해야죠." 현대 남성복 역사에 이름을 남기 수많은 패션 디자이너들은 여성복보다 더 엄격하고 제한적인 규칙을 지닌 이 세계 안에서 각자의 흔적을 남기기 위해 끊임없이 작업했다. 준지 또한 2007년 파리 패션 위크에 첫선을 보인 이래, 동시대 남성복의 중요한 위치를 차지하게 되었다. 날카롭고(sharp) 풍성한 실루엣의 수트와 트렌치코트, 강렬한 그래픽의 점퍼와 스웨트셔츠, 그리고 개인적으로 무척 좋아하는 큰 치수(oversized)의 니트웨어는 이제 '준지'만의 대표적인 스타일(signature style)이 되었다. 매 시즌 기대를 품게 하는 예술가들과의 협업(collaboration) 시리즈도 물론 빼놓을 수 없다.
그야말로 전쟁 같은 일정이 막 시작되고 있었지만, 정욱준의 스튜디오는 퍽 고요했다. 가을비가 내리는 월요일 오후여서 그랬는지도 모른다. 준지의 첫 라이프스타일 아이템으로 선보인 메종 데 부지(Maison des Bougie)와 협업한 크고 작은 향초들과 지난 봄/여름 시즌의 커다란 캠페인 광고 이미지, 준지(JUUN.J)가 표지와 화보를 장식한 잡지들, 1년간 자연스럽게 마른 모습이 마음에 든다는 유리병 속 커다란 꽃다발과 최근 몇 시즌의 작업을 전부 담은 컬렉션 보드(board)가 정욱준의 스튜디오를 채우고 있었다. 남성복의 고전(classic) 테일러링에 동시대 문화(contemporary culutre)와 스트리트웨어(streetwear)를 결합하며 '새로운 우아함(new elegance)'을 만들어 간다고 평가받는 준지(JUUN.J)의 모든 작업이 이 스튜디오 안에서 시작되고 또 마무리된다.
As we step into Juun.J’s studio, the designer, wearing his own black leather blouson, offers a handshake with a friendly smile. It's midway through Seoul Fashion Week, but the mood is serene. Perhaps the rainy fall day helps. The studio space, in Cheongdam dong, Seoul's main luxury shopping thoroughfare, was filled with candles—including one designed by Juun.J himself—magazines, a dried flower bouquet, and plenty of fabric swatches and inspiration boards.
The
first thing Juun.J shows us is his detailed schedule for the next 90
days, leading up to his runway show at Paris Fashion Week in January. No
surprise: the calendar is packed. Juun.J is one of a select few
menswear designers who has managed to constantly innovate in a universe
that's more restrictive than womenswear. Unique silhouettes are his
signature: think oversized trench coats, fitted leather jumpsuits,
rounded sweatshirts with vivid graphics, or reinvented Zoot Suits. He
collaborates with new artists each season—this fall, it's sign artist Josh Luke.
Yet
even with such high-fashion influence, Juun.J finds inspiration
primarily on the streets. Read the interview to find out why, and scroll
through the pictures for a peek at his studio (as well as hisGremlins obsession).
Shop Juun.J here
Shop Juun.J here
HONG SUKWOO: For
the past two seasons, your collection has been defined by exaggerated
volume and sharp silhouettes. How did this signature look come to be?
JUUN.J: Silhouette is the most important part of my designs, and my silhouette is based on an Asian fit. Reinterpretation of classics is the unflinching theme of Juun.J, and it is usually inspired by Western attire. But, the oversized silhouette and items like wide pants are based on Asian garments. Personally, I love simple styles such as white shirts and loose-fitting pants, and it always excites me to play with them and make them special.
What inspires you as you prepare a collection each season?
Streets are the biggest place I find inspiration. Street fashion, as its name suggests, is very common, yet it is avant-garde at the same time. Sometimes people I see on the streets are more stylish than models on the runway. As well, I'm influenced by so-called fashion leaders, older people wearing clothes from past generations, and military uniforms.
I am also inspired by my frequent trips to Paris, where I present my collections. Paris is a city that has a unique ambience different from other places, as it's fashionable and artistic minds are welcomed. Walking on the streets, drinking a cup of coffee, and people-watching there are all sources of inspiration.
How do you spend your time when you're not designing?I tried to relax as much as possible. It is important for me to meditate, read a book, watch a film, and listen to a music to put work aside. Also, it is always great to see people I love and have a meal and drinks together. Among all, my favorite pastime is spending time with my pet dog, Junny. She is the most important family member I have. Just watching her run around helps me recuperate and gives me joy.
It's almost 2015. How has 2014 treated you so far?
2014 has been a great year. I live with fierce passion so that I'll never have to hear “could’ve, would’ve, should’ve” later on. Collaborating with a sports brand was one of the wishes I've always had, and I ended up working with adidas this year to reinterpret the classic '80s Superstar sneaker. It was also a year when my brand’s presence nearly doubled in the world’s most fashionable cities like NYC, London, and Paris. Also, I cannot forget how I felt when the first Juun.J store opened in April at Galleria Luxury Hall, Korea.
You are known for collaborating with artists in different fields. What do these collaborations mean for you personally and to Juun.J as a brand?
Collaboration holds much deeper meaning that “working together.” It becomes a project that crosses and mixes different cultures. The role of a designer is very important in these projects. Personally, I love the artwork of my collaborators, but it is my job to integrate it into the Juun.J collection and showcase it in the best possible way.
This year marks the tenth anniversary of Samsung Fashion and Design Fund, and you are the only three-time SFDF award winner. What kinds of opportunities have you gained from this experience?
The financial and technical support they have provided helped me to prepare my Paris collections with stability, and to grow as a brand. I sincerely hope new Korean designers on the rise will enter and receive attention in global fashion business through SFDF.
Hong Sukwoo, a.k.a. yourboyhood, is a fashion journalist and street-style photographer. He is editor-in-chief of the quarterly cultural magazine Spectrum.
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